5 ways to overcome common errors metering when shooting

No need to have sophisticated equipment or complex lighting techniques can capture images bright enough.

Here are 5 guidelines to avoid metering errors that most commonly encountered photographers to get the shots right "intentions".

1. The subject turned into black and white or gray

Metering system of the camera often see the brightness of the scene is standard tone average (midtone). Photo may have very bright or very dark areas, but average brightness in the center of this area. Therefore, if you shoot full frame with a very bright subject, for example, winter landscapes or dazzling sandy beach, the camera will reduce exposures to see that resulting midtone and white subjects often color is gray. In the opposite case, if the camera's metering system gets confused and see the midtone black object will result in all black can also be converted to gray.

The solution is quite simple. You just need to use the exposure compensation control to increase the exposure to higher than the value suggested by the camera to be true for all white, or reduce exposure to the subject and back to black. Follow histogram displayed on the screen and drag the bar just to the right of the measure to increase the exposure or drag to the left to reduce exposure. However, do not increase too much exposure and whether or not a large peak at the top of the chart to the right, avoiding many of the brightest spot image will be "burned".

Another way to avoid this error is to place a gray cardboard front of the camera lens and the same light as the main subject. Then, set the camera to manual exposure mode and set spot metering modes (spot-metering). Please note for gray cardboard filled area metering and adjust the exposure of the camera proposal. Next, get out of the gray cardboard frames and photo composition by setting the exposure was made, then press the shutter button. Meanwhile, the camera will have the correct gray balance with the environment you are shooting light and the colors more accurately.

2. Choose the wrong ISO setting

If you want to shoot indoors with low light conditions without a tripod, you should adjust the sensitivity setting (ISO) at the highest level. Then, you will see the camera suggest a very high shutter speed while the aperture is very small.

If the camera is set to automatic mode or semi-automatic, in some cases you may not be taken for exceeding the maximum shutter speed or aperture setting at least not small enough.

ISO sensitivity is recommended ideal when shooting outdoors or where there is much light conditions 100 or 200, as appropriate ISO for shooting in the 400 or 800. The ISO levels from 1,600 upwards only appropriate where there is a very weak light conditions and often also cause grain (noise).

3. Speed ​​too slow "start" is moving

When trying to adjust the exposure concentration to keep all of the bright areas and the dark areas are the most grain, it is easy to forget the need to adjust the shutter is fast enough to capture any motion in the scene.

This problem is especially common when shooting indoors with relatively low light conditions or shooting a music concert. In some cases, you just need to adjust a bit more aperture for faster shutter speed, but then you need to increase the ISO setting.Many photographers often afraid to use high ISO setting for fear of image noise, but if you adjust the sensitivity range of the camera and is not available for the extended set does not matter. Remember that image noise than blurry.

Another solution is to use a flash to add light and will also increase the shutter speed faster. This method is often used for portraits of friends and family home. But to capture the musical performances, you have to use high ISO settings and a large aperture.

4. The subject is backlit in low light

When the subject is lit from behind or surrounding darker background, the camera can easily be confused for exposure most important part of the picture while trying to balance the exposure of the entire frame.

The easiest way to get the correct exposure for the subject is backlit switch to spot metering modes (spot-metering) or central priority metering (center-weighted).

Center-weighted mode focuses more on exposing the center part of the frame for accuracy. Meanwhile, spot-metering mode only focusing on the brightness of the object under the selected spot metering exposure settings.

5. Clouds in landscape photos are too bright

This error occurs when a lack of balance between the brightness of the sky and ground in landscape photos. However, in this case, the camera's metering system has priority for foreground and adjust the exposure that the brightest part of the sky is "fire". This problem can be solved by using the ND Grad filter to balance the exposure of the scene or the application of modern digital technology to create high dynamic range image HDR (high dynamic range).

HDR imaging method is best accomplished by coupling two or more photos taken with different exposure settings each, one set for the sky and another set for the ground. Then the image can be bonded with image editing software or a dedicated HDR software. Because the two images need to match each other so it is important not to move the position of the camera, it is best to set the camera on a tripod is solid.

Some cameras today are equipped with built-in HDR photography, so you can capture directly on the camera without having to use any additional software to edit the photos for your lifestyle.

Photo: DigitalCameraWorld